It was a high culture event in the East Java city of
Malang’s most prestigious building – the Dewan
Perwakilan Rakyat [DPR – the People’s Representative Council.]
The invitation list was the usual mix of dilettantes,
freeloaders and connoisseurs found at art exhibition openings everywhere;
matrons dressed to kill and men in bemedalled uniforms who’d never done so. On
the sidelines the unkempt artists, fiddling with their berets as though they’d
just come from a Montmartre garret.
And then there was plain-clothed Zumpotus [Ikha] Shalikha,
25, who clearly didn’t fit, but just as clearly didn’t seem to care. She was there to make money, but unlike the
long-haired men with huge canvasses and price tags to match, her creativity
could be bought for only Rp 15,000 [US$1.15].
Low though it was, this charge had been inflated by a third
from the price list at her studio. “I
thought that crowd could afford to spend more, and I was right,” she said.
“Even public servants were getting a mahendi.”
These are the temporary tattoos that have become an
essential fashion statement for Indonesian women, particularly among the late teens and ladies who lunch.
Mahendi are not to
be confused with the tattoos favored by overseas tourists wandering Kuta,
looking for something to accompany their dreadnoughts and tell the folks back
home that I’ve Been To Bali Too.
Mahendi appears to
be an Indonesian corruption of the Sanskrit word mendhika, meaning henna, the dye made from the leaves of the small
African and Asian tree Lawsonia inermis.
Ikha’s work is original; there are no skulls and crossbones,
no upholstered blondes or arrows piercing hearts.
“Ikha’s art is not haram
[forbidden],” said her husband Rahmat Hidayat, 31. “It’s said that the wives of the Prophet
used mahendi. No-one has ever
suggested what we are doing is wrong.” [Some religious authorities claim having
a tattoo is a sin because it embellishes God’s work.]
“Our tattoos vanish within a fortnight. Prohibition is
against permanent marks. We have a sign outside saying sah untuk sholat [legal for prayers]. Mahendi has become
popular since local TV started screening Indian movies with women wearing
complex designs.”
As Ikha’s workplace
is their front veranda in the couple’s tight-packed kampong just meters from a
mosque it’s safe to assume the zealots would have interfered long ago had there
been any hint of impropriety.
“In the West it seems that tattoos on women indicate
prostitution, but that’s not the situation here,” said Ikha. “I don’t do men,
although I’ve put our daughter Aisyah’s name on my husband’s arm.”
The crowd that eavesdropped
this interview unanimously agreed that tattoos were only for women and
the idea that an inking could make guys look macho was greeted with ridicule.
There’s little doubt Ikha was a problem at school in the
village of Bulu Lawang, about 15 kilometers outside Malang. The seventh of
eight children she didn’t want to end up doing menial work. Academically she
was no standout, but any shortfall was filled by determination.
“I was always doodling,”
she said. “I preferred drawing to
listening to the lesson.” She was also experimenting with liquids to try and
get the colors right for drawings.
Her teachers probably thought she was a lost cause but her
business has now been running for two years and her income far exceeds that of
her former tutors. She’s become the
major breadwinner, a fact that makes her sound engineer husband proud, not
jealous.
“Ikha is very clever and creative,” he said. “She doesn’t sit around watching sinetron [soap operas]. She’s always active and seeking
opportunities, not waiting for them to come to her.”
Rahmat is no slouch either.
He learned English by watching foreign films. “Of course talent is essential but by itself it’s not enough,” he
said.
“You have to make your own luck. It’s also important to be honest and treat everyone fairly and
equally.”
The couple borrowed Rp 2.4 million [US$ 185] from a bank and
topped this up with loans from relatives to make banners and other promotional
materials. All the money has been
repaid.
Every evening Dad, Mom and Aisyah, 3, pack onto a motorbike
with three plastic stools, a fold-up picnic table, banners, stands, carpet and
other gear and head to the Malang Night Market.
When The Jakarta Post
visited Ikha had four customers in the first hour. Her maximum has been 30 in
one night. The women said they just
wanted to look attractive, the girls to show off to their friends next morning.
Their menfolk who paid grunted monosyllables, unable to understand why women
want spiderwebs on their knuckles.
Ikha started out in business making and selling accessories,
little decorations to pin on headscarves and blouses.
Customers admired her hand art and she added the
tattoos. Instead of using commercial
dyes she makes her own from crushed leaves mixed with volatile cajeput oil to
produce a russet color.
Ikha loads the mixture into a thin plastic cone and uses
this like a batik canting, the little
hand tools used to draw hot wax onto cloth, though her dyes are cold.
Decorating the hands, wrists and ankles of women at a
wedding can earn her Rp 3 million [US$ 230].
When she started she was the only show in town – now mahendi are being offered in beauty
salons, though at several times the price.
She’s a rapid worker and can complete an intricate design in
about five minutes.
“My challenge is to constantly create new patterns,” she
said. “High school girls in particular are always looking for something fresh
and different. I check the Internet a
lot to get ideas but most designs are my own.
“With fashion you have to be ahead.”
##
(First published in The Jakarta Post 26 June 2015)
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