FAITH IN INDONESIA

FAITH IN INDONESIA
The shape of the world a generation from now will be influenced far more by how we communicate the values of our society to others than by military or diplomatic superiority. William Fulbright, 1964
Showing posts with label preserving the past. Show all posts
Showing posts with label preserving the past. Show all posts

Monday, June 08, 2015

MUSEUMS GETTING YOUNGER

Hands off – this is Culture                            

They’re the places many enter with reluctance, more as duty than delight.
Somewhere to park the kids if it’s hot or wet outside – though there’s no guarantee of air conditioning or a leak-proof  roof.
The entrance fee is unlikely to burn the wallet, but the gloom might frighten.  So will the laser-eyed staff who know, with the certainty of religious zealots, that the visitors will misbehave, touch something and deserve a public reprimand.
“Museums used to be best known for being silent, dirty and cheap,” said University of Indonesia academic Kresno Yulianto. (right)

“Things are changing, but there’s still a long way to go before we can compete against other public attractions.
“Malls and sporting events entertain.  The best museums entertain and educate.  One of the challenges is to raise the skill levels of front-line staff; managers must ensure guides are not only enthusiastic, but also knowledgeable.
“The strategy of the National Museum in Central Jakarta is changing and will be open for events. I believe that every museum should employ a public relations person.”
Yulianto teaches multiple skills in what used to be called museum studies but is now known as museology, still a rare discipline in Indonesia.  He’s been labelled a ‘museum expert’ but has the background to justify the term.
“I first became interested in historical and cultural objects when I was a child,” he said on the sidelines of the annual National Museum Conference where he was a moderator. The three-day event, which attracted 275 delegates, was held in Malang, East Java last month (May 26-28).
“My Grandmother who lived in Malang was a great collector of old objects, particularly tables.   I wanted to know their history, who made them, who’d sat there, what events had occurred.  Was there a story?
“However I went on to become an archaeologist.  I worked on digs at sites like Borobudur and Trowulan [the heart of the 15th century Majapahit Kingdom in East Java].  I also took up philately.
“About ten years ago I moved into museology.   I’ve been to all the past conferences and there’s definitely a change in thinking.
“This year the theme is A Museum of our Own. By this we mean promoting our history and identity.  Some speakers have cautioned against borrowing ideas from abroad as not all may travel well.  However we need to be aware of trends and get ahead.
“We have so much of interest in this country, so many eras.  They go back to Solo Man [Homo erectus soloensis – a skull found in Central Java estimated to be at least 143,000 years old] through to the present with influences from India, Arabs and Europeans.  What other countries have that range?”
His favorite museum overseas is the Peranakan in Singapore that celebrates the history of Chinese emigrants to Southeast Asia who developed their own culture and cuisine.
Yulianto’s top locals are the Agung Rai Museum of Art [ARMA] in Ubud, Bali and the Ullen Sentalu in Yogyakarta.  The latter displays Javanese culture and art, including artefacts from the royal courts.  It’s run by a former student, Daniel Haryono.
Ullen Sentalu is a private museum which charges Rp 30,000 [US$2.30] entry for locals and Rp 50,000 [US$3.8] for foreigners.  At the Borobudur World Heritage Site the ticket price difference is even wider – Rp 30,000 for Indonesians and Rp 264,000 [US$20] for non citizens.
In Singapore museum prices are the same for everyone. Discounts given to local pensioners are also available to seniors from overseas.
Yulianto said the issue of discriminatory charges would be on the conference agenda.  Higher fees for outsiders could be justified if they got a special service, but otherwise it could put off international visitors. Funding was always an issue and the government had to do more.
Several displays at the conference promoted regional museums and offered brochures.  Few had versions in English; those that did had flawed translations: Hatta and Ahmad Soebardjo gave their througt [sic] orally. It can be seen from the scratch. 
The idea that not all overseas tourists are Philistines heading to Kuta pubs and Bromo sunsets seems to have by-passed authorities who pitch historical and cultural wares only to a local market.
“The English used in our publications has to be of international standard, as it is in Singapore,” said Yulianto.  “Museums are now opening shops and cafes where people can relax and have a pleasant outing.
“We are starting to rotate and exchange exhibitions, though I don’t know if this is happening with overseas museums.
“There’s a huge gap between government and private museums, in their funding and presentations. There are about 400 in Indonesia but not one is listed in the top 25 museums in Asia. [The list was compiled by users of the international travel website Tripadvisor.]
“However initiatives by  the Jakarta Museum Perumusan Naskah Proklamsi [Proclamation Text Museum] are excellent because they are trying to reach young people.”

The Government-run museum has produced an animated DVD Bukti Kemerdekaan Indonesia [Indonesian Independence Facts], and high quality give-away comic book versions of the stories of lesser-known revolutionaries involved in the Proclamation.
The director Huriyati said more books would be produced this year to broaden knowledge of the event that launched the nation.  One would feature Sukarni Kartodiwirjo, a member of the youth group that kidnapped Soekarno to ensure he didn’t get cold feet before claiming Independence.
Sukarni was imprisoned by the Dutch and later became Ambassador to China.  He died in 1971.  He was recognized as a National Hero only last year.
“Our museums are handicapped by a lack of human resources,” said Yulianto. “It’s going to take time to change attitudes.  Only my university and Gadjah Mada in Yogya are teaching units in museology at a senior level.
“We want visitors to touch exhibits,  play games,  get a feel and smell of the past and not just look at stationary objects in glass cases.   Now it’s hands on, not hands off.”
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(First published in The Jakarta Post 8 June 2015)

Monday, December 15, 2014

HANGING ON TO HERITAGE

Sharing a common past    

                             
Decades ago parents entertained their children with a telling ditty about the days before Independence:
Menteng: Immigration Building (1914) now a restaurant
In matters of empire, the fault of the Dutch,                                                              
was yielding too little and taking too much.
After 1945 hostility continued towards Europeans determined to retain influence in the former East Indies.  This climaxed in 1957 when first president Soekarno expelled 40,000 Dutch citizens and nationalised their companies along with other foreign businesses.
New times, new attitudes. The once colonized and the colonialists aren’t just burying their enmity, they’re unearthing their shared past, with people like Dutch author Emile Leushuis helping drive the excavators.
The social geographer and urban historian has no family background in Indonesia’s past; he started backpacking Asia in the late 1980s while still a student at the University of Utrecht, finding the archipelago’s complex history rewarding.
His visits multiplied and became a job. He learned the language.  At first he worked for a Dutch tour company, then an American.  Later he turned freelance setting up tours for Netherlanders keen to know more about the tropical islands their country once ruled. 

Leushuis (right) also wrote articles and lectured, and in 2011 published Gids Historische Stadswandelingen Indonesie (a tour guide to Indonesia’s historic cities). Now in its second printing the book has just been released in a larger format in Indonesian as Panduan Jelajah Kota-kota Pusaka di Indonesia by publisher Ombak.
The company is based in Yogyakarta where Leushuis spends about half his time – the rest back in Holland. He credits his decision to concentrate on Indonesia with a visit to Ubud, the hilltown cultural center of Bali – “my point of no return.”
The book includes specially prepared maps of walks (or cycle rides) in eight Javanese cities - Jakarta, Cirebon, Bandung, Cirebon, Semarang, Yogyakarta, Surabaya and Malang – and Medan in Sumatra.
The translation has Jelajah (exploring) in the title, a useful addition as ‘guide’ implies lists of guest houses and bus routes.  Instead the buyer gets well-referenced histories and streetscapes encouraging further exploration.

“When you go to a place, what do you see?” asked Leushuis. “Why does it look like this? I want to explain what’s here and why, what sort of people lived here and took part in trade and administration.”
Unfortunately the Indonesian version has been printed on cheap paper to contain costs.  So the photos lack the eyeball-striking gloss found in the original which sells for 25 Euros (Rp 375,000) compared to Rp 150,000 for the local edition.
The book includes some splendid old pictures, many found in Dutch museums.  These show the beautiful open areas and wide roads that existed before the population growth got out of control and the Honda hordes invaded the highways.
“I certainly plan to publish in English as I think there’s a strong interest from people who can’t read Dutch or Indonesian,” Leushuis said during a promotion tour.  His book was launched at a seminar in the ancient Majapahit era city of Trowulan in East Java, and again before 120 students at Malang State University.
Public open space - well used; the square in front of Jakarta's Town Hall
 “I also want to work with Indonesians to promote cultural tourism and heritage trails. Several organizations do this but their efforts haven’t been well coordinated.”
After several years of running tour groups Leushuis and another Indonesia addict, former public broadcaster Nettert Smit opened IndoTracks Adventure Tours.  It’s based in Holland but accessible from anywhere through the Internet.
 “There are still concerns about safety and the perceived rise of radical Islam, but the Dutch remain curious about Indonesia and want to know more of their country’s roots in Southeast Asia,” Leushuis said.
“There are no cities in Holland that look like those built in Indonesia. The only one based on Dutch town planning and architecture was Batavia in the 16th century.

“The Europeans quickly discovered that chasing away the locals and digging canals didn’t work in tropical conditions.

“They decided to let the locals have their own city and be ruled by their own people, and just add relatively small Dutch quarters with some military presence.

“Semarang remains the best example of an 18th century Dutch quarter in what is now called Little Holland. Northern Bandung and North-eastern Malang show good later development.

 “The alun-alun (open town square, often a garden where families relax and flanked by important buildings) is a local idea. Indonesians should be very proud of the way they’ve adapted to the environment.”
Then there are the statues.  Indonesia does its old mosques, palaces and traditional joglo (four-sided, high ceiling carved timber houses) superbly, but the Soviet realism monuments of muscled men snapping chains are not just metaphorically coarse they are also artistically crude. They stand as reminders of another era’s politics.
When asked if he was optimistic of Indonesian cities being returned to the feet and lungs of their citizens, and where the past is treasured, not trashed, Leushuis uttered some equivocal noises before listing conservation projects now making a difference.
Most have been driven by forward-thinking companies rather than governments. For example, in Menteng the Kunstkring gallery and old immigration office has been preserved as a restaurant.  In Surabaya the De Javasche Bank building (used for several years by Bank Indonesia) has become a museum and function center.
Kota, the old city in Jakarta is certainly cluttered with stalls that encroach on the open area, but the place remains pedestrian friendly and a joy to stroll without fear of being run down.
“I’m hopeful if some of the traffic issues can be resolved,” Leushuis said. “It’s the main problem facing tourists and draws many complaints.  It’s now getting so difficult to move around. Journeys that used to last two hours now take double that time. That’s a worry.”
Panduan Jelajah Kota-kota Pusaka di Indonesia                                                                     
By Emile Leushuis                                                                                                            
Published by Ombak, 2014.       
(First published in The Jakarta Post 8 December 2014)