FAITH IN INDONESIA

FAITH IN INDONESIA
The shape of the world a generation from now will be influenced far more by how we communicate the values of our society to others than by military or diplomatic superiority. William Fulbright, 1964
Showing posts with label Malang. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Malang. Show all posts

Saturday, February 18, 2023

BEYOND BEYONCE - BENCHMARKING MALANG

 Visit Malang Where Satire’s Real

Depositphotos




This story was going to start by saying Beyoncé winning the Grammys was a godsend to the Indonesian media, but on reflection that might be dubbed impiety by those desperate to be offended.

Better report that the American singer’s triumph ticked all the boxes - glamour, entertainment, celebrity, music and fame. All it needed was to lift the story from US outlets and republish.

OK for newspapers and magazines that could cut-and-paste to suit their layouts, but the TV channels had a problem.That’s because the artist has been gifted with a treasure chest that she shows with pride, not hides with shame.

Her generous assets comforted her three sucklings as intended by nature.  Also pleasured have been her millions of fans,including a sizeable number of men who appreciate the talents of beautiful women.

Though not the misogynists in TV stations.

For some reason which readers of Indonesia Expat can explain, tape-editors mix meteorology with mammaries.

They did this by downloading clouds from  the weather bureau and dropping  them onto the singer’s ample cleavage,not to generate rain but to smother the lovely hills of the Texan’s skinscape.

Readers who favor overseas movies on Indonesian TV know blurrers are fickle. There’ll be a decolletage cover-up in one frame then clear vision moments later.  

Perhaps the censors get exhausted by watching excesses of flesh so dash outside to have a smoke and cool their lust but forget to stop the tape.

I’ve been told, but don’t believe because the explanation is ridiculous in a progressive and tolerant nation, that this blurring is to protect viewers’ sensitivities. That it interferes with balanced adults’ interest is of lesser concern.

There's also an absence of logic. No problem with vision of suicide bombs splattering blood and limbs across places of worship, but outrage at the sight of bodyparts that wobble in arenas of entertainment.

These bits are owned by more than half the adults in this country.  So they know what they look like and how they feel.

The 49 per cent who don’t have that joyful experience spend much of their time hoping to share - within marriage, of course.

But back to the cloud cover generated by a low depression.  Not the type which comes with barometric pressures but the pressure of prudes who think our Creator-given bodies are sinful.

Most of us believe otherwise and keen to celebrate the natural pleasures of consensual ***. We’ll blur the word lest it incite experimentation, but it rhymes with REX.

Father-knows-best was the ideology of last century, supposedly scrapped when we moved to democracy.  But the old ethos persists.

In Malang, where this observation is being keyboarded between thunderclaps and lightning bolts, the upright administrators of the charming hilltown have plenty of work, particularly on the roads.

The daily downpours gouge tyre-tearing craters in the asphalt that demand immediate attention.  The swarms of motorbikes choking the narrow streets makes commuting a misery  - controls required.  Traffic rules help, though only if obeyed.  Maybe more police on patrol?

But our lawmakers have instead chosen to concentrate on Jalan Ijen.  They call it a boulevard which is no exaggeration.

Two wide one-way roads,broad and mainly straight, separated by a manicured nature strip,a curated forest of blossoms.  On the flat flanks great villas display the restrained and gracious architecture of colonial days.

This is not a place to rev the engine, but to throttle back and admire. At a long-gone enlightened era 80 benches were installed. Here the weary can rest awhile and  enjoy the ambience.  

Or could until one lawmaker noticed that men were  sitting next to women - or vice-versa, with stress on the first word.  Worst still, they looked young and happy - qualities that affront the jealous.

The Jawa Pos which broke this exclusive story revealed that some politicians wanted all the benches removed to stop teenagers ‘making out’, whatever that means  Teens won’t understand because it’s from the age of pterodactyls  and prigs.

Taking out all the street furniture was eventually considered too extreme, so the solution has been to wire bamboo sticks across the seats, denying comfort to exuberant teens, weary pensioners and bemused tourists who must wonder if there’s been a Taliban takeover.

Visit Malang Where Satire’s Real Duncan Graham

This story was going to start by saying Beyoncé winning the Grammys was a godsend to the Indonesian media, but on reflection that might be dubbed impiety by those desperate to be offended.

Better report that the American singer’s triumph ticked all the boxes - glamour, entertainment, celebrity, music and fame. All it needed was to lift the story from US outlets and republish.

OK for newspapers and magazines that could cut-and-paste to suit their layouts, but the TV channels had a problem.That’s because the artist has been gifted with a treasure chest that she shows with pride, not hides with shame.

Her generous assets comforted her three sucklings as intended by nature.  Also pleasured have been her millions of fans,including a sizeable number of men who appreciate the talents of beautiful women.

Though not the misogynists in TV stations.

For some reason which readers of Indonesia Expat can explain, tape-editors mix meteorology with mammaries.

They did this by downloading clouds from  the weather bureau and dropping  them onto the singer’s ample cleavage,not to generate rain but to smother the lovely hills of the Texan’s skinscape.

Readers who favor overseas movies on Indonesian TV know blurrers are fickle. There’ll be a decolletage cover-up in one frame then clear vision moments later.  

Perhaps the censors get exhausted by watching excesses of flesh so dash outside to have a smoke and cool their lust but forget to stop the tape.

I’ve been told, but don’t believe because the explanation is ridiculous in a progressive and tolerant nation, that this blurring is to protect viewers’ sensitivities. That it interferes with balanced adults’ interest is of lesser concern.

There's also an absence of logic. No problem with vision of suicide bombs splattering blood and limbs across places of worship, but outrage at the sight of bodyparts that wobble in arenas of entertainment.

These bits are owned by more than half the adults in this country.  So they know what they look like and how they feel.

The 49 per cent who don’t have that joyful experience spend much of their time hoping to share - within marriage, of course.

But back to the cloud cover generated by a low depression.  Not the type which comes with barometric pressures but the pressure of prudes who think our Creator-given bodies are sinful.

Most of us believe otherwise and keen to celebrate the natural pleasures of consensual ***. We’ll blur the word lest it incite experimentation, but it rhymes with REX.

Father-knows-best was the ideology of last century, supposedly scrapped when we moved to democracy.  But the old ethos persists.

In Malang, where this observation is being keyboarded between thunderclaps and lightning bolts, the upright administrators of the charming hilltown have plenty of work, particularly on the roads.

The daily downpours gouge tyre-tearing craters in the asphalt that demand immediate attention.  The swarms of motorbikes choking the narrow streets makes commuting a misery  - controls required.  Traffic rules help, though only if obeyed.  Maybe more police on patrol?

But our lawmakers have instead chosen to concentrate on Jalan Ijen.  They call it a boulevard which is no exaggeration.

Two wide one-way roads,broad and mainly straight, separated by a manicured nature strip,a curated forest of blossoms.  On the flat flanks great villas display the restrained and gracious architecture of colonial days.

This is not a place to rev the engine, but to throttle back and admire. At a long-gone enlightened era 80 benches were installed. Here the weary can rest awhile and  enjoy the ambience.  

Or could until one lawmaker noticed that men were  sitting next to women - or vice-versa, with stress on the first word.  Worst still, they looked young and happy - qualities that affront the jealous.

The Jawa Pos which broke this exclusive story revealed that some politicians wanted all the benches removed to stop teenagers ‘making out’, whatever that means  Teens won’t understand because it’s from the age of pterodactyls  and prigs.



Taking out all the street furniture was eventually considered too extreme, so the solution has been to wire bamboo sticks across the seats, denying comfort to exuberant teens, weary pensioners and bemused tourists who must wonder if there’s been a Taliban takeover.

Undeterred the couples are now getting down and dirty on the grass among flowerbeds, likely to be sprayed with herbicide once the decorum detectives sniff villainy.

But that’s not all.  Security squads will  ensure bosom pals don’t go literal. . Duties of the men in black (Motto: We Hate Life So You Must Too) don’t include stopping bikers riding on the sidewalk or helping the frail and fearful cross the roads - that would be going too far.

A published pre-wiring benchmark photo illustrating the story showed every seat occupied by citizens of all ages, not fondling each other but caressing their cellphones.  The picture didn’t reveal their preoccupation - but we modernists keep abreast of developments.

They were using VPNs, like most do to by-pass the morality cops and so watch Vimeo or whatever they like,cloud free.  Maybe even Beyoncé’s splendid god-given physique.

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Undeterred the couples are now getting down and dirty on the grass among flowerbeds, likely to be sprayed with herbicide once the decorum detectives sniff villainy.

But that’s not all.  Security squads will  ensure bosom pals don’t go literal. . Duties of the men in black (Motto: We Hate Life So You Must Too) don’t include stopping bikers riding on the sidewalk or helping the frail and fearful cross the roads - that would be going too far.

A published pre-wiring benchmark  photo illustrating the story showed every seat occupied by citizens of all ages, not fondling each other but caressing their cellphones.  The picture didn’t reveal their preoccupation - but we modernists keep abreast of developments.

They were using VPNs, like most do to by-pass the morality cops and so watch Vimeo or whatever they like,cloud free.  Maybe even Beyoncé’s splendid god-given physique.

##

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wednesday, December 21, 2022

MALANG PREPARES

 


Season’s Fearings



Will it be safe for Christians this Saturday night in Indonesia?  The signs of the festive season used to be plastic mistletoe and corflute Santas in shopping malls.  Now in East Java’s second biggest city it’s armoured cars outside churches.

The angular steel of the ugly green Bushmaster lookalikes clashes with the soft white curves of Our Mary of Mt Carmel towering behind. The Catholic Cathedral has ample space to park war machines because it’s on the crossroads of Ijen Boulevard, the most spacious and richest end of Malang.

The idea is that displays of weaponry deter terrorists – provided they go for big targets.

Yet plenty of lesser-guarded places of worship remain in the metropolis (pop 850,000) which boasts it’s green, smart and accepting – a quality hard to measure, though with a streetscape to impress.

Within 100 metres of the major Protestant church is the Great Mosque of Malang and on the other side of the town square the Catholic Sacred Heart of Jesus.

All the churches are neo-gothic, built more than a century ago and dominating their locales.  During the Second World War, the Japanese occupiers used them to store food and armaments, but they escaped serious damage. 

In July 1947 returning Dutch troops drove into the hilltown to quell militant revolutionaries  who ran a scorched-earth retreat, fire-bombing colonial-era buildings including the Town Hall.  The churches weren’t touched.

Malang fancies itself as different.  When the local authority tried to promote tourism this year by advertising halal (allowed for Muslims) food outlets, huge banners appeared – including on the Town Hall wall - with the slogan in English Malang Tolerant City Not Halal City.





No authorisation but the professional and costly signs carried images of the national flag and were probably made by Jaringan Islam Liberal (JIL). The Liberal Islamic Network champions inter-faith events and has a history of pouncing on hints of division.

Seven years ago hundreds of posters appeared overnight on pillars and trees with the message which translated as:  ‘Good Muslims do not greet Christians with Happy Christmas or celebrate the New Year.’ 

Within two hours they’d all gone, ripped down by JIL members alerted on social media.

 


Other cities haven’t been so willing to bash bigotry with such speed and vigour, though they’ve been targets of hate since the Republic pronounced itself a democracy early this century.

Eight churches in other centres were bombed with coordinated assaults on Christmas Eve 2000.  In May 2018 a family wearing explosive vests targeted three churches in the East Java capital of Surabaya. 

They were reportedly aligned with the Jamaah Ansharut Daulah (Helpers of the State Congregation) a terrorist cell linked to the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria (ISIS).

Concerned Malang residents of all faiths occasionally gather to support the Deklarasi Malang Berdoa (the Declaration of Prayer for Malang) hoping their initiative will spread. Some killers haven’t been deterred. On Palm Sunday last year suicide bombers hit a church in Makassar.

The Malang church guardians this Christmas should know who among the multitude might have evil intentions. 

Intelligence reports aren’t always reliable.  Recent outrages have surprised security agencies arguing ‘lone wolf’ attacks are unpredictable.  The term is a misnomer – wolves are pack animals and terrorists have links that can be giveaways.

Fortunately fanatics are few and aren’t the brightest glow-worms in the gloom of religious bigotry. Otherwise, they’d notice the church protectors spend more time dozing in the cloisters than eyeballing crowds.

If the bombers could muster enough courage to confront superstitions they’d walk with confidence into the places of worship by looking like the people they want to murder and maim.  But dressing like a kaffir (unbeliever) is ironically hateful to those who specialise in hate.

In a culture where sorcery stays strong, the credulous fear close contact with other religions means they’ll get infected and inadvertently commit the sin of apostasy.

On Java where 88 per cent follow Islam, the differences are easy to spot.  Christian women wear knee-length skirts, the men in suits and ties. They clutch Bibles, walk as couples or families and go bareheaded.

Moslems worship most days often in their everyday gear.  On holy Fridays the men wear sarongs and walk to mosques in all-male groups carrying prayer mats.

The more inflexible like the released Bali bomber Umar Patek, show bruised foreheads as marks of piety. The women cover everything in black bar eyes, though this garb is rare.

Wahhabism, an austere version of Islam imported from Saudi Arabia, has reportedly been encouraging dress codes and funding the widespread building of new mosques. 

Not all are happy with what Goenawan Mohamad,  the founder/ editor of Tempo news magazine labels the ‘Arabisation of Indonesia’, undermining his nation’s traditional coexistence with other creeds.

 Islam Nusantara is a home-grown moderate alternative to the rigid Middle East interpretation of Islam.

Although it’s reported that Indonesians are becoming more religiously conservative, the claim’s difficult to quantify.  Polls are useless because the sample sizes are usually minuscule and taken in Jakarta. 

About 75 per cent of Muslim women in Indonesia wear the headscarf according to Human Rights Watch which blames intimidation by schools and zealots; it was only five per cent in the late 1990s. Whether this is more about fashion than godliness is a contentious debate.

Like Christianity, Islam is split into factions.  The largest, boasting a membership of at least 40 million, is Nahdlatul Ulama (Revival of the Scholars).

NU seems to have a grip on Malang; in the past, its members have been bloody and brutal, but now it’s pushing moderation and inclusiveness, though still anti-Gay.

This week some of its unarmed cadres will patrol streets protecting the smaller churches.  We’ll soon know whether such a piecemeal approach will ensure Christmas doesn’t go with a bang.  Moderates of all callings will pray so.

(The writer lives in Malang.)

First published in Pearls & Irritations, 21 December 2022:https://johnmenadue.com/seasons-fearings/


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Friday, December 31, 2021

NEED A COVID TEST? WALK RIGHT IN

Here's how to solve the Covid testing site queues:  Make the cost prohibitive.

The picture of this site in central Malang (East Java) was taken around noon on 30 December '21.

Staff thought they might get 20 customers by nightfall. 

It would take a local tradie three to four days' work to muster the PCR Rp  495,000 fee - about AUD $50.

On this basis the cost in Oz would be close to $1,000.  If that was being charged at test stations in the Eastern States the queues would probably dissolve.

Another point:  Indonesian Covid stats are clearly flawed.  No tests, no stats.
 

Thursday, May 13, 2021

IDUL FITRI

 


DAWN SERVICE

An old trick of journalists reporting on big crowds is to ask a cop how many people are gathered.  Unless there are controlled entrances to the venue the police guess is usually as good as the journos, but the copy will pass sub-editor scrutiny if it includes the sentence:  ‘Police estimated the crowd as more than 10,000’.

There were no police to be seen in Malang’s alun-alun (town square] at the dawn service to mark the end of fasting on 13 May, so we can only report ‘big numbers’.  The overflow from the 120-year old Masjid Jami (Great Mosque) spilled into the closed streets where families  kept prayer mats and their new clothes clean by spreading the black-top with newspapers – and leaving them behind when the 20-minute prayers were over.  Not all stayed for the broadcast sermon but got away early as the roads were congested.

Among the many incongruities were balloon sellers wandering along the prayer lines. 

I was probably the only bule ( Caucasian] present and inappropriately dressed as we'd cycled to the city centre - but no glowering or muttering.  A soberly festive event.










 

Thursday, April 29, 2021

FROM FASTING TO FEASTING

 

             Handling the Ramadan Challenge

 


 

 

It’s Ramadan, the annual fasting month practised strictly, laxly or somewhere in-between by the world’s 1.8 billion Muslims. Living as a non-Muslim foreigner in Indonesia where 88 per cent of the 273 million citizens say they follow Islam can be physically challenging. It’s also intellectually confusing and socially engrossing.

 

Three hours beyond midnight and the street’s satpam (security guard) is on his regular patrol. He carries a metal bar, not to frighten potential housebreakers, but to bash the steel power poles three times. Then he shouts sahur – the meal to start the day. For after 4.27 am, the faithful will abstain from food, drink and sex, though rarely cigarettes, till 5.32 pm. That’s when sirens, like those used in air raids, tell it’s time to get stuffed.  

 

The times, which change marginally every day, are published on newspaper front pages.

 

The fact that three families in our street in Malang (East Java) closest to the ringing steel are not Muslim and would prefer to snooze is immaterial. Complaints to the local community leader would probably be heard politely, but he’d do nothing. If there are noise abatement laws in Indonesia they’re forgotten.

 

Also ignored are bans on the sale and use of fireworks. While the oldies pray, gangs of pre-teen boys roam the streets throwing bangers and yahooing, though rarely violent or vandalising. To newcomers they look and sound frightening though not enough to warrant calling the cops. In any case, there are none in sight. The lads don’t have access to grog. This is not Australia.

 

Swedish researcher Dr Andre Moller reports parents saying it’s safer to let the kids go feral because of this ancient belief: ‘When the month of Ramadan starts, the gates of heaven are opened, the gates of hell are closed, and the devils are chained.’ 

 

So what could go awry with mobs of mini-hoons tossing crackers which they think a hoot? Only the nerves of those who first think gunfire. This is not the US.

 

In the first week, Malang looked more like Melbourne during a lockdown, but after seven days of no income, economic need displaced religious fervour. Restaurant front doors stay closed during daylight, though not those at the side.

 

 International chains like McDonald's continue to do business (ostensibly for non-Muslims) but pull down blinds so passers-by can’t see miscreants. 

 



 

In the past packs of sanctimonious thugs conducted ‘sweepings’ by trashing businesses that didn’t close – or pay. The government is clamping down on extremists since they started targeting the police.

 

Later as sunset looms the smell of boiling fat and smoking sate is as ubiquitous as the chanting of Koranic verses in Arabic. It may well be a beautiful language as its 422 million users worldwide attest, though not when yelled by the tone-deaf through scratchy sound systems atop mosques.

 


Mid-afternoon the ravenous start gathering at Takjil, a cluster of temporary stalls set up by the local government for street food. Most in the thick crowds wear masks, but social distancing is impossible.

 


 

Also unthinkable is having any intelligent conversation. The hungry are obsessed with food and talk of little else. In the final week, grumpiness becomes the norm. Menstruating women are allowed to eat and it’s astonishing how many have prolonged periods, even grannies.

 

Although Indonesia is challenging its southern neighbour for first prize in the vaccine stuff-up stakes with less than three per cent of the 273 million citizens fully covered to date, religion isn’t at fault. The Indonesian Ulema (scholars) Council has pronounced shots are halal. Their reasoning: The needle is thrust into muscle and not the bloodstream so nothing nutritious is absorbed. 

 

In a bid to check crowd-spread of Covid-19 President Joko Widodo has ordered police to stop Mudik.  This is the movement of millions of big-city dwellers heading to their hometowns to take a break with relatives and hand out presents.  

 


 

For the young, this is usually money. Lucre is indeed filthy in a cash economy, so kerbside entrepreneurs sell plastic packs of new notes. (Pic right) Snacks were traditionally gifted in hand-woven wicker baskets. Now they’re plastic and sold in shops.

 

There’ll be roadblocks till mid-May, though many will be avoided as travellers use Jalan tikus – literally rat roads, but meaning shortcuts through villages. Even Health Minister Budi Gunadi Sadikin has publicly conceded the reality – the smart will get through whatever edicts are pronounced in Jakarta.

 

Maids, drivers, gardeners, nannies and others who keep the megarich comfortable, take off along with an extra month’s salary, for this is also a time to buy new clothes. Their employers who fear getting their hands dirty usually camp out in Singapore hotels.

 

Ramadan will climax on 13 May with the Idul Fitri celebrations, a week of feasting to end the fast. In Western countries where Muslims are a minority (2.6 per cent in Australia), mags run soft features by well-nourished writers on the health and spiritual benefits of doing without, along with picture spreads of exotic foods.

 

A less charitable version published in The Jakarta Post had the editorial board sermonising that the original ‘moral lesson’ of abstinence is that ‘we are expected to stand in the shoes of those who are destitute or poor.’ However, the iftar fast-breaking meal has become a ‘splurge’, a show-off indulgence in top restaurants.

 

The Prophet Muhammad’s meals at sundown are supposed to have been dates and water.

For kafir, the unbelievers who find Ramadan a time of tension and nothing like the version in the glossies, the solution is to move further east to an island where Christians rule – or cope.

 


 

With Covid crimping travel, adjusting is the only alternative in a society where minorities have rights but exercising them is pointless. So crank up the AC to lessen the din and accept this is life in Java.

 

On the streets of Australia whingers about Christmas slow-down risk being told: If you don’t like it, go back where you came from. In Indonesia the fasters look with pity at the forlorn foreigners not participating in the togetherness.  They offer to share and give the Ramadan response: Mohon ma’af, lahir dan batin – Please forgive me, body and soul 

 

First published in Pearls & Irritations, 29 April 2021:  https://johnmenadue.com/ramadan-in-indonesia/