Meet, stay, love
Indonesia is bigger than Kuta, says President Joko ‘Jokowi’ Widodo. He wants tourists to stay longer, wander farther
and drop their dollars into tills beyond the Three Bs– Bali, Borobudur and
Bromo. Duncan Graham took his advice.
………………………………………………
Pity hoteliers trying to stay afloat in a tidal and turbulent
market.
In the bad old like-it-or-leave
days a hard bed and a squat toilet in a barrack-cell losmen was the best local travellers could expect.
Overseas visitors might get up-market accommodation in the
big cities. There was no point in
complaining that the lights had gone out and the water ran rusty because the
phone wouldn’t work.
Now the world is on the move; guests are getting choosy and
can rank services on the Internet. Odors
in the lavatory and stains on the sheets?
Tell all – and they’ll steer clear.
Air conditioning, hot showers, a fridge and a cable TV
service are now industry standards. Staff with real smiles are essential, not
the grimaces of yesteryear. Room safes and free Wi-Fi are becoming common, even
in small towns.
Now add bicycles.
Borobudur isn’t just one of the world’s wonders, a majestic
9th century three-tier Buddhist temple described by its discoverer
Sir Stamford Raffles as this ‘noble building’ and ‘majestic edifice’. It’s also
a Central Java town.
Backpackers use it to board unsprung busses for next stop
Yogyakarta, while the moneyed majority head straight from the archaeological park
gates to the airport. That’s a mistake.
In the villages beyond and in a straight line are the related
temples Pawon and Mendut. Few foreigners bother to drive the five extra
kilometers even though the entrance fee is only Rp 30,000 ((US$2.20) for the
two compared with nine times that sum for the bigger monument.
Wanurejo is a nearby hamlet off the tourist track, though
only by a few twists and turns. Here the
locals have accepted President Jokowi’s challenge to expand tourism by combining
to offer must-try experiences. Their
secret lure: Arthouse Homestays.
These are converted or purpose-built cottages in ordinary
lanes and among local residents.
Regulations prohibit more than five rooms so even with a full house
double digit occupancy is rare. That
means fellow travellers are easy to meet.
To avoid, push pedals.
Homestay is not always the correct term as the owners may be
elsewhere – guesthouse is more accurate. Staff tend to be neighbors so the men
watch the premises while the lady who cooks breakfasts and mops the floor lives
a few doors down.
When not boiling eggs straight from the nest or airing
bedding she may well be applying wax on cotton and happy to let quivering hands
try the tjanting. Batik demands
patience so cityfolk should pack plenty before leaving Stress Central.
Others paint and hang their impressive work on guesthouse
walls, or make organic soap and other supplies for hotels. As Arthouse
Homestays are only now getting known the villagers have yet to develop the Kuta
syndrome where every bule (Caucasian)
is regarded as a walking ATM, ripe for a withdrawal.
No flash uniforms, no unctuous receptionists, just wholesome
kampong friendliness and the chance to see the way most Indonesians live. That’s not in high-rise anonymous apartments
but among the rice and sugar cane fields of rural landscapes like the fertile
and flat Kedu Plain. Which means it’s ideal for cyclists of any age.
But where to wheel? After over-dosing on ancient ruins and
saturating irises with shimmering landscapes it’s take-it-easy time. There are no poolside bars but there are
cafes and studios.
Antique dealer Umar Chusaeni and his Japanese wife, artist
Yasumi Ishi have set up a collective studio and performance space where artists
can perform or show their works. It’s
not a guesthouse.
“We try to stage an event once every two months,” said
Chusaeni who once ran a major show in the fields behind his house with
elephants.
“There’s much
artistic talent in this area – perhaps inherited from the craftsmen who carved
the panels on the walls of Borobudur Temple, though many would have fled when
Merapi erupted. (There was a major explosion in 1006.)
“We keep asking the government to allow more homestays, but
few officials understand the business and how it’s building a creative economy.
“Every village has a tourist committee – and they know what
visitors want.”
That includes seeing artists at work at the Limanjawi
Arthouse where locals have space to work. Like Wawan Geni, 34, who thankfully
confronts his canvases outside. For
instead of brushes and pencils he uses glowing mosquito-coils and lighted
cigarettes to produce strange shadings.
When J-Plus visited
Limanjawi the Institut Seni Indonesia (ISI
-Indonesian Arts Institute) student was smoking over a big canvas of Borobudur
temple as seen from above. He claimed he
only used a pack of smokes a day but an overflowing ashbucket and yellow
fingers suggested otherwise.
“Smoking helps me relax and gives me inspiration,” he said.
“I’m not worried about getting sick.”
Commented Chusaeni: “He gets paid well for his work with tobacco companies
among his admirers.”
Although most villagers follow Islam there’s no sense of
fundamentalism. Buddha statues are widespread in public and private areas.
“The ones in China are fat and in Thailand always resting,”
said Chusaeni, a Muslim. “But our Buddhas
in Java are lean and happy.
“This is a safe area where outsiders are welcome. People
come here for the culture and to feel the spirit of Borobudur. They come for peace.
“There is no sense visitors are interfering or damaging our
traditions and culture. After a few days here you get to understand a little of
our lovely land.”
(Breakout)
Getting there
Arthouse Homestays are ideal for couples on a budget,
serious about understanding Java and getting closer to the people. Visitors who
want to relax in comfort but are not into hedonism should find this
accommodation ideal.
Most homestays are listed on Internet hotel booking agencies
with prices starting from around Rp 300,000 (US $ 23) per room/night including
breakfast, tax and service charges. Some offer pick-ups from the airport or bus
terminal.
Bicycle hire is either free or around Rp 30,000 (US $2.30) a
day. Buy fresh fruits from roadside
traders. Those with special dietary
needs should bring their own supplies.
Kids? Yes, if mature and appreciative of difference. No if their world is defined by Pokemon. There’s rafting nearby for the adventurous.
English is rare but tolerance common so encounters can be fun.
Bali resorts have manicured gardens, aerobic classes,
fashion shows and menus to cater for most tastes. Arthouse Homestays are the
affordable alternative with all add-ons the real thing. They are also well beyond the ugly tout-zone encircling
the big temple.
First pub lished in J Plus - The Jakarta Post on 11 December 2016
No comments:
Post a Comment