FAITH IN INDONESIA

FAITH IN INDONESIA
The shape of the world a generation from now will be influenced far more by how we communicate the values of our society to others than by military or diplomatic superiority. William Fulbright, 1964

Thursday, May 16, 2019

PLASTER SAINTS - SOLID BELIEFS


Have faith in diversity                                                    

Nofa Safitri, 24, is a Gusdurian, a supporter of the liberal values of Indonesia’s fourth president Abdurrahman ‘Gus Dur’ Wahid.

She decided to test her backing of pluralism by stepping outside the faith she was gifted at birth. The West Sumatran chose Yogyakarta’s Jesuit Sanata Dharma University for her tertiary education, dismissing relatives’ fears she’d be converted.

“I remember going into the classroom and seeing a cross on the wall,” she said. “I was at first concerned but five minutes later I’d accepted this was the environment.  I’m still Muslim.”

Not all are so venturesome. Readers would know of Christians who’ve never left their shoes outside a mosque, and Muslims who have never fingered holy water - both for fear of infection.  Not physical diseases, but spiritual corruption.

That’s nonsense, according to craftsman Purboyo.  From hooks on the paint-splashed walls of his Malang workshop dangle crucifixes big and small, plain and hung with the crippled body of Christ.  



There are also some enigmatic Buddhas with eyes downcast, and halo-hatted saints, their beatified features staring heavenwards

The statuettes are made by carving moulds of fiberglass and silicone rubber to take the plaster bodies; the midwife’s tools include a bucket of calcium carbide and an electric angle-grinder.

Purboyo can create special designs to order and in a hurry for the homes of Catholics and the niches and nooks of their churches – seldom those of Protestants.  They prefer plain walls and basic trappings so worshippers aren’t distracted.

(An exception is the All Saints Anglican Church in Menteng, Jakarta, which has much to read on the walls should the sermon not inspire.)

On the craftsman’s paintpot-cluttered workbench are more nativity scenes than a thorough theologian could find in the Gospels. There are also enough 3D models based on The Last Supper 15th-century mural by Leonardo da Vinci to remind all that there were no women present – not even as servers - at this seminal event.

Most buyers of this art would expect the maker to be a churchgoer, well versed in the faith he portrays. Yet the religion on Purboyo’s KTP (ID card) reads ‘Islam’.  

At one level this can be seen as an example of Indonesian tolerance.  On another it could mean the fundamentalists have yet to find him.



No problems?

“No.  Why should there be?” he replied.  “At their roots all faiths are much the same.  The gap between them is very small. 

“My village (about ten kilometers outside the East Java city) is totally Muslim.  But so far no-one has bothered me. They know what I do. Radicals aren’t religious, they just want controversy.  If anyone starts trouble I’ll explain my thinking.”

This is certainly unconventional. Although officially a member of the nation’s dominant religion, Purboyo’s real beliefs are Javanese Kebatinan which pre-dates Islam.

Also known as Kejawen and Kepercayaan, it’s a complex mix of Hindu and Buddhist teachings plus animism pre-dating Islam and Christianity.  The traditional religion of Java is not officially recognized but instead classified as a cultural practise.

Numbers of practitioners are hard to find as they keep a low profile.  They seldom gather in open groups and often publicly follow a mainstream creed while harboring different ideas.  Sometimes their presence is only revealed when incense sticks are found at ancient temple sites after special nights on the five-day Javanese calendar.

Purboyo practices his doctrines alone; they involve bathing and long meditations.  He’s been to the graves of the Walisongo, the nine Islamic saints who are believed to have spread Islam in Java, though not to pray.

He doesn’t go to mountain summits or deep caves, the retreats of second President Soeharto who was raised in Javanese mysticism, but contemplates at home. 



Instead his hero is Soekarno who is buried in Purboyo’s home town Blitar.  The first President’s portraits also hang on the dusty walls.  “Just talking about him gives me goosebumps,” he said, pointing to the rising hairs on his forearms. “He’s my hero.

“Sometimes when I’m in a bad mood I find the faces of my statuettes look grim, which doesn’t please buyers.  Imagine a Mother Mary with outspread arms welcoming sinners, yet she seems miserable.  Who’d ever want to go to her? So I have to be careful when I work – which is often late at night.”

Comparison with Russian composer Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker or fictional woodcarver Geppetto’s puppet Pinocchio is rejected; “There’s no spirit in my statues – they’re just that,” said Purboyo. “Magic is not involved.” 

He learnt his craft while working for an antique dealer and watching colleagues fix broken objects with fiberglass.  He eventually started his own studio and sells his products through Christian shops, competing with imports from Italy. 



Islam prohibits representations of living things, and not just people.  This has helped create a vast flowering of abstract art and colorful patterns that don’t appear in nature and can often be seen on the domes of mosques.  The ban is said to prevent idolatry and recognize Allah as the only creator.

“Muslims are allowed to have calligraphy on their walls, but my skills aren’t good enough,” said Purboyo. “So I stick to Buddhist and Catholic art.” His buyers know he doesn’t share their faiths – but seem unconcerned.

His ideas have been garnered from other followers of Kebatinan for there are no dedicated buildings or services.  Purboyo gets much of his thinking from personal discussions with another mystic.  He claims sicknesses have been cured following rituals.

Both his parents were Muslims though an older sister has converted to Christianity.  His wife Eny Juwantiningsih is a pre-school teacher and they have two children:  “We will give them moral direction but they must then find their own way,” he said. “They won’t go to religious schools.”

Reincarnation is not part of the Kebatinan belief system though Purboyo ponders the possibilities.  When he dies and gets confronted by the six doors of Indonesia’s government-approved faiths, which one will he knock?

“That won’t happen,” he said firmly.  “There are no separate religions in heaven.”

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(First published in The Jakarta Post 16 May 2019)

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