Season’s Fearings
Will it be safe for Christians this Saturday
night in Indonesia? The signs of the
festive season used to be plastic mistletoe and corflute Santas in shopping
malls. Now in East Java’s second biggest
city it’s armoured cars outside churches.
The angular
steel of the ugly green Bushmaster lookalikes clashes with the soft white
curves of Our Mary of Mt Carmel towering behind. The Catholic Cathedral has
ample space to park war machines because it’s on the crossroads of Ijen Boulevard,
the most spacious and richest end of Malang.
The idea is
that displays of weaponry deter terrorists – provided they go for big targets.
Yet plenty
of lesser-guarded places of worship remain in the metropolis (pop 850,000) which
boasts it’s green, smart and accepting – a quality hard to measure, though with
a streetscape to impress.
Within 100
metres of the major Protestant church is the Great Mosque of Malang and on the
other side of the town square the Catholic Sacred Heart of Jesus.
All the
churches are neo-gothic, built more than a century ago and dominating their
locales. During the Second World War,
the Japanese occupiers used them to store food and armaments, but they escaped
serious damage.
In July
1947 returning Dutch troops drove into the hilltown to quell militant
revolutionaries who ran a scorched-earth
retreat, fire-bombing colonial-era buildings including the Town Hall. The churches weren’t touched.
Malang
fancies itself as different. When the
local authority tried to promote tourism this year by advertising halal (allowed for Muslims) food outlets,
huge banners appeared – including on the Town Hall wall - with the slogan in
English Malang Tolerant City Not Halal City.
No
authorisation but the professional and costly signs carried images of the
national flag and were probably made by Jaringan Islam Liberal (JIL). The Liberal Islamic Network champions inter-faith
events and has a history of pouncing on hints of division.
Seven
years ago hundreds of posters appeared overnight on pillars and trees with the message
which translated as: ‘Good Muslims do not greet Christians with
Happy Christmas or celebrate the New Year.’
Within
two hours they’d all gone, ripped down by JIL members alerted on social media.
Other
cities haven’t been so willing to bash bigotry with such speed and vigour,
though they’ve been targets of hate since the Republic pronounced itself a
democracy early this century.
Eight churches
in other centres were bombed with coordinated assaults on Christmas Eve 2000. In May 2018 a family wearing explosive vests targeted
three churches in the East Java capital of Surabaya.
They were
reportedly aligned with the Jamaah
Ansharut Daulah (Helpers of the State Congregation) a terrorist
cell linked to the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria (ISIS).
Concerned Malang residents of all
faiths occasionally gather to support the Deklarasi Malang Berdoa (the Declaration of Prayer for Malang) hoping their initiative will spread. Some
killers haven’t been deterred. On Palm Sunday last year suicide bombers hit a church in
Makassar.
The Malang church
guardians this Christmas should know who among the multitude might have evil
intentions.
Intelligence
reports aren’t always reliable. Recent
outrages have surprised security agencies arguing ‘lone wolf’ attacks are unpredictable. The term is a misnomer – wolves are pack
animals and terrorists have links that can be giveaways.
Fortunately
fanatics are few and aren’t the brightest glow-worms in the gloom of religious
bigotry. Otherwise, they’d notice the church protectors spend more time dozing in
the cloisters than eyeballing crowds.
If the
bombers could muster enough courage to confront superstitions they’d walk with
confidence into the places of worship by looking like the people they want to
murder and maim. But dressing like a kaffir (unbeliever) is ironically
hateful to those who specialise in hate.
In a
culture where sorcery stays strong, the credulous fear close contact with other
religions means they’ll get infected and inadvertently commit the sin of
apostasy.
On Java where
88 per cent follow Islam, the differences are easy to spot. Christian women wear knee-length skirts, the
men in suits and ties. They clutch Bibles, walk as couples or families and go
bareheaded.
Moslems
worship most days often in their everyday gear.
On holy Fridays the men wear sarongs and walk to mosques in all-male
groups carrying prayer mats.
The more
inflexible like the released Bali bomber Umar Patek, show bruised foreheads as
marks of piety. The women cover everything in black bar eyes, though this garb
is rare.
Wahhabism,
an austere version of Islam imported from Saudi Arabia, has reportedly been
encouraging dress codes and funding the widespread building of new
mosques.
Not all are
happy with what Goenawan Mohamad, the founder/ editor
of Tempo news magazine labels the ‘Arabisation
of Indonesia’, undermining his nation’s traditional coexistence with other
creeds.
Islam Nusantara is a home-grown moderate alternative to the rigid Middle
East interpretation of Islam.
Although
it’s reported that Indonesians are becoming more religiously conservative, the
claim’s difficult to quantify. Polls are
useless because the sample sizes are usually minuscule and taken in Jakarta.
About 75 per cent of Muslim
women in Indonesia wear the headscarf according to Human Rights Watch which blames intimidation by schools and zealots; it was only five per
cent in the late 1990s. Whether this is more about fashion than godliness is a
contentious debate.
Like Christianity, Islam is
split into factions. The largest,
boasting a membership of at least 40 million, is Nahdlatul
Ulama (Revival
of the Scholars).
NU seems to have a grip on Malang; in the past, its members
have been bloody and brutal, but now it’s pushing moderation and inclusiveness,
though still anti-Gay.
This week some of its unarmed cadres will patrol
streets protecting the smaller churches.
We’ll soon know whether such a piecemeal approach will ensure Christmas doesn’t
go with a bang. Moderates of all
callings will pray so.
(The writer lives in
Malang.)
First published in Pearls & Irritations, 21 December 2022:https://johnmenadue.com/seasons-fearings/
##