The land of no social
distance
While the Western world thinks staying apart is wise to
avoid Covid-19 infections, Indonesians still remain together.
Only magnates can practise social distancing by fleeing to apartments
in Singapore, or hunkering
down in their Jakarta
mansions. The threats would come from
outside the high iron gates, brought in by the maids, gardeners and drivers who
help maintain the oligarch’s opulent lifestyles.
The wee folk have no opportunity to keep their distance on
Java. It’s reputed to be the world’s
most densely populated island with about 1,120 people per square kilometer. In Jakarta
the compaction is a dozen times greater.
Johns Hopkins University of Medicine in the US is tallying
Covid-19 around the world. On Wednesday
(25/3) Indonesia
had 686 cases confirmed and 55 deaths. That ratio of almost nine to one puts Indonesia far
above other countries, but may also be skewed because so few have been tested.
The environment is another danger. Few Westerners get the
chance to explore the gang (alleys)
of urban kampongs where people live so close its often impossible to pass and not
brush clothes. Reaching out to the
neighbours doesn’t demand a conscious decision – just lifting an arm is
sufficient.
The Directorate General of Human
Settlements reported that kawasan kumuh
(slums) covered 38,000 hectares of Indonesia. This had risen to 87,000 hectares last year
despite many clearing projects. In Jakarta 445
communities are classified as ‘slums’.
It’s in these twisted, congested communes that the roots of
Indonesian tolerance – and parochialism – have thrived.
Elsewhere millions of workers and students live in kos, basic bedrooms with access to a
toilet and little else rented from private homeowners. These people eat outside at roadside stalls,
making the idea of a lockdown impractical.
The language is full of references to the virtues of close-proximity
living. Rindu kampung halaman (I long for my village), to mangan ora manga asal kumpul (even when
hungry we have each other). Hanging out
(nongkrong) was invented in Indonesia.
Now being shared is a virus.
Although kampong residents generally keep homes and streets well washed,
drains are usually open and livestock often kept under the same roof. Walls,
doorways, handles, switches – all are touched and retouched every few minutes.
In Tomohon, a small town in North Sulawesi, a wildlife meat
market similar to the one in Wuhan
where Covid-19 is alleged to have started, operates openly. Dogs, cats, bats, forest pig, pythons and
other feral animals continue to be sold despite an international campaign to have
the trade shuttered. In response a huge
government poster outside proclaims its ‘Love for Animals’.
Jamu (herbal
drink) women wander the streets selling home made cures for all ills, including
coronavirus. Their potions are far
cheaper than proprietary medicines and their effectiveness is confirmed by
anecdote.
At least customers aren’t following Australia and
panic buying toilet rolls, only found in hotels catering for foreigners. The culture is to wash, which seems far
cleaner.
Community health services stress hygiene and proper waste
disposal, yet rivers remain the favoured place to chuck rubbish. The best
disposal points are indicated by signs threatening penalties. The people have information – what they don’t
have is health literacy.
The US National Academy of Sciences’ Institute of Medicine defines this as ‘the
degree to which individuals have the capacity to obtain, process, and
understand basic health information
and services needed to make appropriate health
decisions.’
Most research has been done in Europe,
but any survey in Indonesia
would likely find the nation largely health illiterate. Which makes combating the spread of Covid-19
particularly difficult.
Although my Indonesian wife looks and
feels fine it seems she suffers from hypothermia. That’s according to a shop security guard’s forehead
thermometer which recorded 33 degrees.
It was the same for her equally sprightly
sister. The women distrusted the device and its untrained user so walked on. But the procedure looked comforting; something
was being done.
The dangers of smoking are advertised on
the packs of fags plus a small panel on the huge DON’T QUIT posters urging men
to prove their masculinity though nicotine.
International health authorities believe
almost 70 per cent of Indonesian men smoke. Packs cost about one US
dollar. The World Health Organisation
reckons around 270,000 deaths a year in Indonesia are caused by
smoking. If Covid-19 takes hold smokers
will be particularly susceptible.
The World Bank estimates that around 25 million Indonesians
live on one US dollar a day. More than
half the workforce is in the informal sector and has no safety net.
It’s work, beg or bludge from relatives – which is another
reason President Joko Widodo is resisting a lockdown.
There’s a tiered national health
insurance scheme called BPJS (Badan Penyelenggara Jaminan Sosial) which
relies on voluntary payments. It’s
grossly under-funded, opposed by many hospitals and doctors, and seriously
sick.
Working from home is an option only for the well-educated
employed by government, multinationals and universities. But even they have to cope with poor Internet
services.
According to the US pro-democracy NGO Freedom House only 56 per cent of
Indonesians have access to the Internet, one of the lowest penetration levels
in the region. Even in big centres it’s
frustratingly fickle.
Even Health Minister Terawan Agus recommended worship while medicos were urging washing.
Few questioned why any deity would recognize lines drawn on maps by humans, spare those on one side while afflicting the allegedly less pious innocents next door.
Deaths in Indonesia,
where almost 90 per cent of the population is Muslim, are followed by same day
or next morning burials. The community
gets involved, rarely undertakers and doctors.
Unless the police are called because of violence, there’s
seldom a post mortem or tissue swab to determine cause of death. Instead relatives use their faith to explain
a sudden departure: Allah or God had
called her or him home. Their time was
up. That’s how the world works.
No longer.
First published in Pearls and Irritations, 27 March 2029: https://johnmenadue.com/duncan-graham-the-land-of-no-social-distance/