When eagles cease to
soar
All this month six years ago Yogyakarta and surrounds were
on red alert as Merapi blew 38 meters off its peak, bringing it down to 2,930.
The nation’s most active volcano threatens regularly forcing evacuations. Should outsiders get involved? Duncan
Graham reports.
Once it was a sure portent of troubles to come – eagles
soaring higher than normal above Central Java’s ferocious and fickle ‘fire
mountain’.
Villagers on the slopes below knew this could prelude black pyroclastic
clouds as the rising heat created thermals for the birds to spiral to new
heights. But the Javan Hawk Eagle -
Indonesia’s national bird - is now rare; there are fewer than 350 breeding
pairs left in the wild and extinction expected in a decade.
With the passing of the raptors goes local wisdom that has
helped generations cope with the violence of nature. Both are irreplaceable.
So no avian early-warning system for threatened
farmers. Now they rely on official
alarms provided by government scientists they seldom trust, according to French
author Elizabeth Inandiak (above)..
“Villagers tend to be suspicious of authorities,” she said.
“That’s why they are often reluctant to leave their homes in an emergency. They are landless agricultural workers but
their tenure is through adat
(customary law) and fear official agencies won’t recognise their ownership when
they return. And few want to be shifted
elsewhere.”
Inandiak, now 57, is no ingénue. She’s lived in Central Java
since 1989 studying language and culture.
Yet she was still surprised by local resilience and
ingenuity following the May 2006 Yogyakarta earthquake which killed 5.700 and
injured 37,000. Earlier that month Merapi had erupted and 11,000 were
evacuated.
Among the many devastated villages was Bebekan, about 20
kilometers south west of Yogya. Two of
the 400 residents were killed and several injured. The writer’s house was not
damaged but she was asked to help by one of the women made homeless.
“How could I not get involved,” said Inandiak. “The need was overwhelming and I had contacts
in Europe who could donate.”
Within days the Euros started to flow and the European
transplant was thrust into a new role.
She was already well known in the academic community as translator into
French of the almost forgotten Serat
Centhini.
This is the Javanese epic of 17th century life
first published in the 19th century and known to some as the Kama
Sutra of Java for its erotic passages.
Her work won prizes in France including the Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur (Knight
of the Legion of Honor) for services to literature and improving
Franco-Indonesian relations.
But for seven years after the earthquake she gave up writing
to be involved with community work. She
broke the drought this year with her novel
Babad Ngalor-Ngidul (the chronicle of pointless pursuits) based around the
eruptions of Merapi and the myths of the mountain which last erupted in 2014.
Along the way she climbed a steep learning curve experiencing
the emotions of recovery from overwhelming disaster; she saw how people respond
in good and bad ways to great stress and grew frustrated with the politics of
international aid delivery.
She has harsh words for development agencies’ bureaucratic
procedures and expenditure priorities, though not for emergency services or the
motives of individuals drawn to help.
Her advice to helpers: “Don’t ask what people need – ask
what they wish for … listen to those wishes and respond.
“Use local skills. Never promise more than you can deliver.
Women are the key figures in the community.
“Some of the reconstruction is of intangibles – like
spiritual connections and cultural practices including as music and art. These might seem impractical when people are
homeless, but they are necessary. Recovery
has to be holistic.”
A flag showing two
ducks (bebek) was designed. Gamelan
instruments were obtained, dances held.
While the people of Bebekan and hundreds of other hamlets
were sheltering under sheets of iron from ash and rain, agency staff were
staying in the Hyatt in Yogyakarta “where one night costs more than rebuilding
a house”, though to be fair few hotels were open after the quake.
Pledged Indonesian government re-building grants did not arrive. At the time she wrote: ‘the people of Bebekan
do not expect anything from this promise. They still haven't received the
survival allowance due to any victim of the earthquake (Rp 90,000 (US $7) and
ten kilos of rice per month, and which has already been distributed in many
other districts’.
Inandiak shared some of her insights with students, staff
and others at Yogyakarta’s Gadjah Mada University where she spoke last month
(Oct) at a conference on responses to human crises.
Her message was ultimately positive – though not in the way
aid agencies like to tell with happy snaps of jolly kids and contented Moms
admiring a new well head courtesy of taxpayers in developed nations far away.
For humans everywhere are complex mixes of reason and
unreason, neither flawless nor irreparably shattered.
First the language.
“They are not victims but survivors,” Inandiak said. “They have sovereignty over their land. They are not going to be objects of
NGOs. They need to decide themselves how
and when reconstruction starts.
“They didn’t want the army to get involved because they
might lose their surviving possessions and building materials that could be
re-used. Salvaging was the people’s responsibility.”
With 9,000 Euros (then about Rp 150 million) mainly donated
by French artists, 85 houses were built in less than two months. Inandiak credits this extraordinary
achievement to gotong royong
(community self help): “I was amazed –
these people had globalization within themselves.
“The people who once thought they had no history were
restoring Bebekan to the pages of history.”
But along with a slow recovery to some sense of normality
came the return of individual egos.
“Getting money is not the real difficulty,” she said. “The main problem
is human conflict with maybe 70 per cent of time spent trying to resolve issues,
even though people greet each other and shake hands regularly to keep the
social network intact.”
Sands deposits from the eruption brought contractors from
afar, but the locals wanted the deposits left alone. More confrontations.
“To help in these extreme situations you need a serving
attitude,” she said. “Be prepared to undergo a mental revolution.”
(First published in The Jakarta Post 21 November 2016)
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